Somawathiya Chethiya (Somawathi Stupa),

Archeological site, Ancient Buddhist temple, Ancient renovated stupa, Jungle, grassland, river banks, elephants & wild life sanctuary

Reaching Somawathiya Chethiya (Stupa)We will be arriving from Polonnaruwa or from Minneriya. Coming from Minneriya, we will have to pass the Higurakgoda town to reach Sungawila. From Pollonnaruwa, we will need to turn at the Hospital Junction (between Polonnaruwa and Kaduruwela towns). The distance to the stupa from both these towns (Minneriya as well as Polonnaruwa) is about 40 kilometers. The Somawathiya Chethiya is located by the bank of the River Mahaveli within the Somawathiya strict natural reserve and wildlife sanctuary. Sungawila is the last village we come across on the route to Somawathiya. Once we pass this village we are at Somawathiya strict natural reserve and wildlife sanctuary. It is said to have been the abode of 500 Arahat (supremely enlightened, who broke free from the suffering in the cosmos, the eternal cycle of birth, death & rebirth) Bhikkhus in the 2nd century BC.

Somawathiya strict natural reserve and wildlife sanctuaryThe flood plains of Mahaveli River with luxuriously growing grasslands have been inhibited by a large number of wild animals ranging from elephants, wild buffalo & deer. On the low lying banks of the mighty river are other areas protecting wildlife, i.e. Wasgomuwa National Park, Flood Plains National Park and Trikonamadu Natural Reserve.

Through the jungle and The Villu wetlandsSungawila onwards it's a lonely dusty unpaved road of 12 kilometers. We will be driving through the jungle and villus to the great isolated dagoba. The last stretch of the road is right in the land of elephants. Early morning or late in the evening, we are sure to come across few wild elephants. The villagers are used to encounters with wild elephants in the temple grounds during the nights too. The keepers of the cadjan stalls do not fail to throw few bunches of bananas here & there for the benefit of the wild elephants. The beasts would be content with the small gift to leave the occupants of the stalls unharmed.

The River Mahaweli that changed its course 800 years agoThe historical records narrate that the Somawathiya stupa was built on the eastern bank of the Mahaveli River. But today the stupa is located about 1/2 km from the west bank of the river. Initial confusion was subsequently solved with discovery that the river has changed its course during the last 800 years and in fact the current sandy road leading to the Somawathi was the path of the river some 800 years ago. The change of course River Mahaweli at Somawthiya correlate well with A. Denis N. Fernando's (atBMICH on 18th October 2002) theory in relation to the "Decline of the ancient Hydraulic civilization of Sri Lanka".

Sacred right tooth relic of BuddhaSomawathiya was built in 2nd century BC. According to chronicles, Somawathi Chethiya was built by Prince Giri-aba on the request of his wife Princess Somawathi (sister of King Kavanthissa) who lived on a small community called "Somapura" on the banks of Mahaveli River. Upon completion of the Stupa, Sacred right tooth relic of Buddha was gifted to the prince by Buddhist monk Maha Thera Mahinda. The relic was enshrined in relic chamber of the stupa. From then on till 4th century AD, the sacred city was renovated by King Kannitta Tissa, King Kurtakanna Tissa, King Gamini Abhaya and King Amanda Gamini.

Rediscovery of the site & excavationsThe site was rediscovered in 1940's and in 1948 Ceylon secured independence from the British colonialists. Renovations were initiated by a group of devotees. In 1964 archaeologists started excavating the site. While excavating the main stupa, a smaller stupa at a depth of 5 feet into the main stupa was found. It is believed this smaller stupa was the original Somawathi Chethiya build by prince Giriaba in the 2nd century BC and the latter stupa build around the original was the work of King Kanitta Tissa in 164 AD. Archaeologists unearthed several ruins of structures including a wall surrounding the stupa. Also unearthed are four moonstones, flower pedestals, six 3 1/2 feet long "siripa gal" (rocks carved with the image of sole of the feet of Buddha). Nine stone inscriptions have been found around this site & four of the nine inscriptions on the Eric Swan rock.

Eric Swan rockThe Eric Swan rock is located a few meters away from the gravel road, about 100 meters before the main entrance to the temple. Eric Swan who took a shot at the massive reclining Buddha statue carved into the rock was killed by one of the wild elephants who were disturbed by the sound of the gunshot. Elephants used to rub their backs & butts (Eh!) on a nearby rock outcrop. Carved into the rock surface where Eric Swan stood standing cross-legged, flamboyantly took his aim & shot at the Buddha statue is the print of his shuffled feet. A villager has resolved to etch the uncivilized act right into the huge rock itself.

Howard Carter (the legendary discoverer of Tomb of King Tutankaman) Vs Giragama Nilame (then guardian of Holy Temple of Tooth, Kandy)
When it was revealed that the Sacred Right Tooth Relic of Buddha was enshrined in the relic chamber of this stupa, Diyawadane Nilame (Appointed Guardian of the other existing tooth relic) Giragama Nilame, of Dalada Maligawa (The Holy Temple of the Tooth) launched a search for the lost stupa. The misdirected intention of the Guardian of the Holy Temple of Tooth at Kandy was to secure the custody of the right tooth relic & to deposit it alongside the left tooth relic at Holy Temple of Tooth at Kandy. It is said that the guide lost his sight on the day the team reached the stupa. During the excavation cobras surfaced & a swarm of wasps attacked the team. While fleeing from the wasps the Guardian of The Holy Temple of Tooth was injured. He later died of the wound. The story rings a bell. Death of Howard Carter & others following the excavation of tomb of Tutankhamen.

The light & no sound show 1 for Sri Lanka Broadcasting Corporation (SLBC)A flash in the pan. During the renovation of the stupa a ceremony was held for the purpose of enshrining relics in the relic chamber of the stupa. The ceremony on 30th June 1977 was attended by correspondents of Sri Lanka Broadcasting Corporation. Beams of light radiated out of the stupa illuminating the sky. 7.20a.m.

The light & no sound show 2 for the President of Sri LankaA freak. A repetition of freak of rays of lights took place on 4th July in 1981 at the inauguration ceremony. At the arrival of then President of Sri Lanka Mr. J. R. Jayawardhana for the purpose of ceremonious unveiling of "Kotha" (pinnacle) of the stupa at 2 pm, once the phenomena of "rays of light" took place illuminating whole sky with the colour of yellow & the seemed as if it is moon. The all yellow colour of the sky seemed to have a fleeting effect of shrouding the sun. The white clothes of the pilgrims attending the ceremony too were illuminated in the colour of yellow.

It was arranged for the president to unveil the "kotha" (pinnacle studded with a large jewel) by simply pulling down a rope tied with the flag knot to the pinnacle of the stupa. Having witnesses the phenomena, the president decided to rise to the occasion & go hell for leather. He climbed to the top by way of a temporary stairway built for workers and unveiled the pinnacle with bare hands.

The light & no sound show 3 for the President's sister & brother
Freak 2. As if the President himself wouldn't do, a repetition of the show took place for his siblings on the 28th April 2002. Among the thousands of pilgrims were sister and the brother of President J..R. Jayawardhana who were there to pay homage to the chethiya. This time it was continued for over 45 minutes.

The light & no sound show 4 Freak 3. Again on 13th August 2006, poya day (full moon day) and continued for about 3 minutes. Could all these freak incidents are caused by the congregation of deities (other superior beings in other worlds = celestial beings = extraterrestrial beings) who visited to pay respect for the Sacred Tooth Relic?

Seruwila Raja Maha Vihara (Seruwila stupa)Habarana Trincomalee road via beautiful Kantalai tank is the quickest route to Seruwila. At Somapura we pass an approach road to Somawathie Chatiya National Park. Close to Allai tank is Seruwila Stupa. It was originally built by King Kavantissa in the second century AD. The small restored dagoba is said to enshrine the Buddha's frontal bone relic. Around the stupa are several ancient structures & two caves housing Buddha sheltered by Nagaraja (cobra king) statues.

                                         

Kandy Esala Perahara - August 1st to 11th

The month of Esala (July), during which period this annual pageant is usually held, had been considered a month of celebrations and festivity, both among Indians and Sri Lankans. Even from the lifetime of the Buddha in the 6th century BC, the Esala festival was held to commemorate the Buddha's Conception, his Renunciation and the First Sermon. Esala is also considered to be the beginning of the raining season (Vassana) when the monks commence their Retreat. Also, this month is considered to be the period when ritual performances to the protective divinities are held, (eg Pattini puja) as recorded in the text 'Pattini-Halla'. Being considered a 'chaste' month, the period is held sacred for the availability of water, hence prosperity.

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Adam's Peak

Adam's Peak
Sri Pada
Adam's Peak from a distance
Elevation	2,243 m (7,359 ft)
Location
Adam's Peak Sri Lanka
Location	Sabaragamuwa, Sri Lanka
Range	Samanala
Coordinates	06°48′41″N 80°29′59″E

Adam's Peak (also Sri Pada; Sinhalese Samanalakanda - සමනළ කන්ද "butterfly mountain", and also ශ්‍රී පාදය "Sri Paadaya"; Tamil Sivanolipatha Malai - சிவனொளி பாதமலை), is a 2,243 m (7,359 ft) tall conical mountain located in central Sri Lanka. It is well known for the Sri Pada, i.e., "sacred footprint", a 1.8 m (5 ft 11 in) rock formation near the summit, which in Buddhisttradition is held to be the footprint of the Buddha, in Hindu tradition that of Shiva and in Islamic and Christian tradition that ofAdam, or that of St. Thomas.^[1]

Contents

  [hide] 

• 1 Geography
• 2 Trails
• 3 Nomenclature
• 4 History
• 5 The Sacred Mountain
  • 5.1 Legends
• 6 See also
• 7 References
• 8 External links

Geography[edit]

The mountain is located in the southern reaches of the Central Highlands, in the Ratnapura district of the Sabaragamuwa Province—lying about 40 km northeast of the city of Ratnapura. The surrounding region is largely forested hills, with no mountain of comparable size nearby. The region along the mountain is a wildlife reserve, housing many species varying from elephants to leopards, and including many endemic species.

Adam's Peak is important as a watershed. The districts to the south and the east of Adam's Peak yield precious stones—emeralds, rubies and sapphires, for which the island has been famous, and which earned for its ancient name of Ratnadvipa.^[2]

Trails[edit]

Access to the mountain is possible by 6 trails: Ratnapura-Palabaddala, Hatton-Nallathanni, Kuruwita-Erathna, Murraywatte, Mookuwatte & Malimboda. The Nallathanni & Palabaddala routes are most favored by those undertaking the climb, while the Kuruwita-Erathna trail is used less often; these trails are linked to major cities or town by bus, accounting for their popular use. The Murraywatte, Mookuwatte & Malimboda routes are hardly used, but do intersect with the Palabaddala road midway through the ascent. The usual route taken by most pilgrims is ascent via Hatton and descent via Ratnapura; although the Hatton trail is the steepest, it is also shorter than any of the other trails by approximately five kilometers.

Sri Pada (Adam's peak) view. Sri Lanka

Once one of the starting 'nodes' of Palabadalla, Nallathanni or Erathna are reached, the rest of the ascent is done on foot through the forested mountainside on the steps built into it. The greater part of the track leading from the base to the summit consists of thousands of steps built in cement or rough stones. The trails are illuminated with electric light, making night-time ascent possible and safe to do even when accompanied by children. Rest stops and wayside shops along the trails serve refreshments and supplies.

Whilst there are many ancient monuments on Sri Pada, there is an important Peace Pagoda located half way up, built by Nipponzan Myohoji in 1978.

Nomenclature[edit]

Sunrise on Adam's Peak

Mahagiri Dambaya

Due to its significance to the various people that inhabit the country, the mountain is referred to by a variety of names.

The often used Sri Pada is derived from Sanskrit, used by the Sinhalese people in a religious context; this name also has meaning in Pāli, and may be translated roughly as "the sacred foot". It refers to the footprint-shaped mark at the summit, which is believed by Buddhists to be that of the Buddha. Christian and Islamic traditions assert that it is the footprint of Adam, left when first setting foot on Earth after having been cast out of paradise, giving it the name "Adam's Peak".^{[citation needed]} Hindu tradition refers to the footprint as that of the Hindu deity Shiva, and thus names the mountain Shiva padam (Shiva's foot) in Tamil. Tamils may also use the name Shivanolipatha Malai to refer to the mountain.

Another Sinhala name for the mountain is Samanalakanda, which refers either to the deity Saman, who is said to live upon the mountain, or to the butterflies (samanalayā) that frequent the mountain during their annual migrations to the region. The name Sri Paada, however, is the more commonly used.

Other local and historic names include Ratnagiri ("jewelled hill"), Samantakuta ("Peak of Saman"), Svargarohanam ("the climb to heaven"),Mount Rohana and other variations on the root Rohana.

History[edit]

Sri Pada is first mentioned (as `Samanthakuta') in the Deepawamsa, the earliest Pali chronicle, (4th century), and also in the 5th century chronicle Mahawamsa, where it is stated that the Buddha visited the mountain peak. The chronicle Rajavaliya states that the King Valagamba (1st century BCE) had taken refuge in the forests of Adam's Peak against invaders from India, and later returned to Anuradhapura. The Mahawamsa again mentions the visit of King Vijayabahu I (1058–1114) to the mountain. The famous Chinese pilgrim and Buddhist traveler Fa Hien stayed in Sri Lanka in 411–12 CE and mentions Sri Pada although it is not made clear whether he actually visited it. The Arab traveler Ibn Batuta on arriving on the island in 1344 CE, and Marco Polo, have recorded their visits to Sri Pada. John Davy (1817) was the first English traveler to visit the peak, and recorded observing an oversized foot print carved in stone and ornamented with a single margin of brass and studded with gems.

The Sacred Mountain[edit]

The village of Nallathanniya at the feet of the mountain, where the stairs begin

It is revered as a holy site by Buddhists, Hindus, Muslims and Christians. It has specific qualities that cause it to stand out and be noticed; including its dominant and outstanding profile, and the boulder at the peak that contains an indentation resembling a footprint. As the 1910,Encyclopædia Britannica notes^[3]

"For a long period Sri Pada was supposed to be the highest mountain in Ceylon, but actual survey makes it only 7353 ft. above sea-level. This elevation is chiefly remarkable as the resort of pilgrims from all parts of the East. The hollow in the lofty rock that crowns the summit is said by the Brahmans to be the footstep of Siva, by the Buddhists of Buddha, by the Muslims of Adam, whilst the Portuguese Christians were divided between the conflicting claims of St Thomas and the eunuch of Candace, queen of Ethiopia. The footstep is covered by a handsome roof, and is guarded by the priests of a rich monastery half-way up the mountain, who maintain a shrine on the summit of the peak."

It is an important pilgrimage site, especially for Buddhists. Pilgrims walk up the mountain, following a variety of difficult routes up thousands of steps. The journey takes several hours at least. The peak pilgrimage season is in April, and the goal is to be on top of the mountain at sunrise, when the distinctive shape of the mountain casts a triangular shadow on the surrounding plain and can be seen to move quickly downward as the sun rises.

Climbing at night can be a remarkable experience, with the lights of the path leading up and into the stars overhead. There are rest stops along the way.

Legends[edit]

A view of Adam's peak from Maskeliyatown

The mountain is most often scaled from December to May. During other months it is hard to climb the mountain due to very heavy rain, extreme wind, and thick mist.

For Buddhists, the footprint mark is the left foot of the Buddha, left behind when Buddha visited Sri Lanka, as a symbol for worship at the invitation of Buddhist God Saman.

Tamil Hindus consider it as the footprint of Lord Shiva. It is also fabled that the mountain is the legendary mount Trikuta the capital ofRavana during the Ramayana times from where he ruled Lanka.

Muslims and Christians^{[citation needed]} in Sri Lanka ascribe it to where Adam, the first Ancestor, set foot as he was exiled from the Garden of Eden. The legends of Adam are connected to the idea that Sri Lanka was the original Eden, and in the Muslim tradition that Adam was 30 ft tall^{[citation needed]}.

A shrine to Saman, a Buddhist "deity" (People who have spent spiritual life during their life on earth and done pacificism service to regions are deified by Sri Lankan Buddhists) charged with protecting the mountain top, can be found near the footprint.

         
                          Dambulla Cave Temple

                                 

                     Dambulla cave temple also known as the Golden Temple of Dambulla is a World Heritage Site (1991) in Sri Lanka, situated in the central part of the country. This site is situated 148 km east of Colombo and 72 km north of Kandy. It is the largest and best-preserved cave temple complex in Sri Lanka. The rock towers 160 m over the surroundingplains.There are more than 80 documented caves in the surrounding area. Major attractions are spread over 5 caves, which contain statues and paintings. These paintings and statues are related to Lord Buddha and his life. There total of 153 Buddha statues, 3 statues of Sri Lankan kings and 4 statues of gods and goddesses. The latter include two statues of Hindu gods, the god Vishnu and the god Ganesh. The murals cover an area of 2,100 square meters. Depictions on the walls of the caves include the temptation by the demon Mara, and Buddha’s first sermon.

Prehistoric Sri Lankans would have lived in these cave complexes before the arrival of Buddhism in Sri Lanka as there are burial sites with human skeletons about 2700 years old in this area, at Ibbankatuwa near the Dambulla cave complexes.

History

This temple complex dates back to the 1st century BC. It has five caves under a vast overhanging rock, carved with a drip line to keep the interiors dry. In 1938 the architecture was embellished with arched colonnades and gabled entrances. Inside the caves, the ceilings are painted with intricate patterns of religious images following the contours of the rock. There are images of the Lord Buddha and bodhisattvas, as well as various gods and goddesses.
The Dambulla cave monastery is still functional and remains the best-preserved ancient edifice in Sri Lanka. This complex dates from the 3rd and 2nd centuries BC, when it was already established as one of the largest and most important monasteries. King Valagambahu is traditionally thought to have converted the caves into a temple in the 1st century BC. Exiled from Anuradhapura, he sought refuge here from South Indian usurpers for 15 years. After reclaiming his capital, the King built a temple in thankful worship. Many other kings added to it later and by the 11th century, the caves had become a major religious centre and still are. King Nissanka Malla gilded the caves and added about 70 Buddha statues in 1190. During the 18th century, the caves were restored and painted by the Kandyan Kings.
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